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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.